November 14th, 2009
As the seasons change, indoor gardening is just what we need to keep our green thumbs green and growing. Planting flowering bulbs indoors is a fun and easy way to grow something during the winter. Paperwhites and bulbs are the easiest to bloom indoors since neither has to be forced.
Paperwhites will produce fragrant white blooms will appear within 3 to 4 weeks of planting. Once the blossoms turn brown, remove the bulbs and throw them away. Paperwhites can not be saved for re-blooming. Make sure you pick up a good supply of them now and plant every 2 to 3 weeks to have a continuous supply through out the winter. Amaryllis bulbs take a little longer to bloom, so allow about 8 weeks of growing time until bloom. Large flowers with a variety of shades of red, white, pink and orange make the Amaryllis a popular and easy choice for indoor gardening.
If you want something more permanent, you can simply add some green plants to brighten your home for winter. Indoor gardens transform ordinary rooms into vibrant living spaces. House Plants do more than just brighten up a room with color and living energy, they bring real health benefits to your body. Not only do headaches, stress and colds decrease when indoor plants are present but decorating a room with plants can help to keep the air clean.
We have plants for corners and table tops as well as hangers for your windows. Lush colors and textures will add some magic to a drab interior space this winter.
-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery
October 3rd, 2009
In our first post we discussed how the fall was a great time to seed a lawn, and for many of the same reasons it is also a great time to plant trees and shrubs. In the fall the warmer soil temperatures and cooler air encourage root development without the constant worry of your plants drying out hours after watering them. With the roots already well on their way to being incorporated into the soil, they can focus more of their energy next spring into growing into strong healthy plants.
When planting, there are a few easy steps you can follow that will increase your plants chances for survival (which will in turn reduce the likelihood of having to redo the project over). When I am planting for myself or others, I always make sure I have at the very least compost, peat moss, and starter fertilizer. We carry 1 ft3 bags of planting mix that come premixed with compost and peat as well as carrying both individually. For the starter fertilizer I would recommend something that contains mycorrhizae, which is just a big word for beneficial bacteria. For this we carry Bio-tone® as well as Organica Plant Growth Activator™, both are organic and work well for all plants.
Once you’re ready to go with all your supplies the next step is to dig the hole. The hole should be no deeper than the height of the root ball. If anything the root ball should be above ground level ¼ – ½ inch. The hole should be wide enough to give the root ball at least 6 inches on all sides (though more is better) so the roots have soft soil to grow into. If your plant is being taken out of a container it is important to see if it is pot bound. If there are any roots circling the root ball, the root ball should be scored vertically with the blade of your pruners (or any other sharp gardening tool) several times around so the roots face more outward, the direction they need to grow.
Once dug, place the root ball in the center and face the plant. What this means is that if there is a side that will be more visible than others, make sure the best side of the plant faces that way. If the plant is large in size or if the trunk is loose in the soil, it may be a good idea to stake the plant. Remove the burlap (if there is any) from just the top of the root ball. You should leave the burlap around the sides and bottom because it helps maintains the integrity of the root ball and will break down quickly. You also do not have to remove the metal basket (on larger root balls). Just bend back the loops that protrude above ground so they are just below the surface and they will also break down over time and do not inhibit root development.
Once the shrub is facing the way you want it and is straight, you are ready to fill in the hole. With the dirt that you have taken out mix in the compost, peat, and starter fertilizer and then begin to backfill, compacting it as you go. You can make a ring with the remaining soil as wide as the hole you dug earlier to help retain water.
For larger trees, the addition of a Gator Bag can greatly reduce the number of times you need to water. They are wrapped around the trunk and filled with water. The water slowly drips out of the bottom over the next 6-8 hours soaking the roots much deeper than hand watering. All of these steps give your plant the best possible chance of survival as well as improve the overall appearance for the seasons to come.
-By John Prettyman Thayer Nursery
September 28th, 2009
If your hostas, or any other plants, looked like this during the summer then chances are you have hungry deer close by. This picture is of a hosta that is displayed near the back of our property line where deer have been known to wander in and graze wherever they please. There is nothing more frustrating than spending time making your garden look nice, only to have wandering critters make a meal out of it. The best way to avoid this is to apply a repellant on regular intervals to prevent damage before it happens. Plants can also be netted with bird netting to keep deer out and still let sunlight in. This protects year round and only needs to be done once (though it will need to be reset each year to allow for new growth). Either way, we have what you need and now is the time to take start acting.
When all the deciduous trees and shrubs are leafed out during the summer, deer damage is much less concentrated because there is more for them to eat. However, once fall has caused all of their leaves to drop and all of the perennials to die back there are much fewer food options. As a result deer frequently strip an entire evergreen shrub of its foliage which will not grow back until spring and severely harm the overall health.
This is why we recommend applying deer repellant once a month, especially during the fall and winter months. We carry several different brands that work from different approaches so they can be rotated every couple of months to prevent the deer from becoming immune to their scent. Stop in to check out our stock and keep your plants off this year’s menu!
-By John Prettyman Thayer Nursery
September 1st, 2009
Fall seeding is a great way to repair damaged areas in your lawn created throughout the summer, or start and establish a new lawn. It is a fact that fall is a better time for germination and lawn development due to better weather conditions. Not only is the air temperature cooler in the fall, but the soil temperature is actually warmer than it is in the spring. This allows the grass seed to develop into a mature plant much faster.
Once you’ve decided to go through with a fall seeding, there are a few things you should know. It is important to know the climate you are in. In our area, South Shore/Boston, there is a window of opportunity that encourages the seeds peak performance running from the beginning of September to the 2nd week in October (easiest way to remember, do not seed after Columbus Day). Within this window we can break the process down into 7 easy steps:
- Test the pH of your soil – Before you begin, it is always a good idea to test your soil pH to make sure it is between 6.0 and 7.5. If your soil reads below 6.0 you will need to add lime to make it more alkaline, and if it reads above 7.5 you can add Espoma® Organic Soil Acidifyer to make it more acidic.
- Remove any large rocks and roots – This includes any that may be protruding or are just beneath the surface of your soil.
- Top-dress your soil with compost – Come in and ask us about our AllGrow Compost. For best results the compost should be tilled into the existing soil.
- Amend the soil – This is the stage where you would add any lime (if needed), peat moss, and starter fertilizer (do not try to spread by hand or mix together in spreader since different rates are needed for each). We recommend using Jonathan Green New Seeding Lawn Fertilizer or Jonathan Green Winter Survival. If you’d like to go organic, we also sell Jonathan Green Organic Lawn Fertilizer! Once you’ve spread your soil amendments with a spreader, use a steal rake to rake them into the top inch of soil.
- Spread the grass seed – It is important to set your spreader to the correct opening and to spread the seed as evenly as possible. As far as type and amount of seed, we carry an extensive line of Jonathan Green Grass Seed Mixtures that come in many different size bags. Be sure to consult with one of our knowledgeable staff members about which seed is best for your lawn prior to purchasing your seed.
- Rake in the grass seed – Using a plastic leaf rake, flip it upside down and make short light strokes to make sure that the seed gets turned in slightly but is not redistributed over the soil.
- Make sure your seed gets watered – This is by far one of the most important factors in the germination of grass seed. Water the entire newly seeded area evenly with a sprinkler once you are done seeding. For the first 10-14 days after, it is best to water two to three times daily for five to ten minutes each time. This ensures that the seed stays moist but is not drenched or washed out.
For seeding over existing lawns, you can follow the same basic steps except where it involves tilling or turning your soil. In its place, it is a good idea to thatch and/or aerate your lawn first before spreading amendments and seed. Following these steps ensures your lawn has the best chances possible to look its best. And of course, if there are any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask us by posting a response, calling our store (617)698-2005, or stopping by!
-By John Prettyman Thayer Nursery
