Archive for the ‘Problem Solvers’ Category
How Can I Prevent Deer Damage?
Monday, November 21st, 2011
We all know deer feed on trees and shrubs, a scary thought when the deer population is increasing and the resulting damage can permanently disfigure your plantings! Even worse, this damage is more likely to occur in the winter when other food supplies are limited. Luckily, there are proven-effective cultural practices and organic repellents for control!
“They must be starving! Maybe if I feed them, they’ll stay away from my plantings.” Sound familiar? As tempting as it may be, do not feed foraging deer. Feeding the deer trains them to think of your yard as a reliable source of food and they won’t stop at handouts, your landscape plantings will become their tasty treat!
Deer-X protective fencing is a more direct method of cultural protection against browsing. Whether used to erect vertical fences (to prevent access) or simply draped over shrubs (to interfere with chewing), this simple, rugged mesh can provide seasons of control!
An application of a deer repellent, such as Liquid Fence or Deer Scram, on and around landscaped areas will also help stop deer from making a winter meal of your trees and shrubs. Because they work by scent, repellents stop damage before any feeding occurs:
Liquid Fence is available as a liquid concentrate and in a ready-to-use spray bottle. Simply apply to plants and their perimeter to discourage foraging by scent. The active ingredients dry odorless to humans and do not need to be rotated with other brands!
Deer Scram is available as a granular formula with no mixing necessary. Simply apply in a 16 inch strip around plants to discourage browsing for up to 100 days!
Always remember that it’s much easier to prevent feeding damage than it is to stop a foraging cycle that has already begun. Call or stop by the Nursery to discuss your cruelty-free options with our knowledgeable staff!
-By Andy Archer Thayer Nursery
Frantic About Fungus?
Friday, July 1st, 2011
Is There A Fungus Among Us?
The roller coaster weather pattern we experienced this spring switched back to prolonged wet and chilly weather last week. While the moisture was needed as soils were quite dry, the constant wetness creates ideal conditions for disease causing organisms. Disease causing organisms are natural inhabitants of the soil and infect grass plants when the environmental conditions are favorable or the plants become weakened by poor growing conditions. The pathogen is favored by warm, humid weather, wet or compacted soil, drought stress, and low mowing heights.
The spores of these parasitic forms of plant life are spread by wind, air, water, animals, people, insects and mowing.
Important steps to manage plant diseases include proper soil preparation, proper selection of grass seed including ones with a natural genetic resistance to diseases, and application of proper cultural practices.
If you have a fungus, spraying now with Dr. Earth Natural & Organic Fungicide effectively combats a broad spectrum of fungal diseases found in your lawn, on your vegetables, flowers & shrubs. Dr. Earth can be used both as a foliar spray for your plants or a soil drench for your lawn & trees.
Once you have sprayed the fungicide, you should then fertilize your lawn & your plants with Fire Belly Bio-Blast to reintroduce beneficial mycorrhizal fungi.
Healthy soils that have the ability to fight off disease causing pathogens increase the chances of plant survival and thus control the pathogens so they will not multiply in great numbers. Beneficial microbes fill up the available spaces in the soil so that pathogens cannot become established and destroy healthy plants.
Most lawns recover with changes in environmental conditions and proper cultural practices. For severe cases due to poor soil, poor grass selection, or excessive thatch, the best solution may be renovation. Please give us a call with any questions or to schedule a courtesy consultation for a lawn renovation.
planting for the future.
-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery
Thayer Nursery Guarantees Bug-Free Firewood
Monday, September 27th, 2010
Isn’t all firewood the same?
Absolutely not. In fact, even all kiln-dried firewood is not the same and here’s why.
Firewood must be seasoned before you can use it. When wood is first harvested it’s green, with very high moisture content. It doesn’t burn well and it may smoke, or sputter. It also can produce creosote, a black oily accretion that builds up inside chimney flues as a result of wood that doesn’t burn completely. Creosote can clog up your chimney. Seasoning dries the wood.
Kiln-dried firewood has been seasoned by drying in a kiln. With this method, as opposed to leaving the wood out to season in the elements, the firewood is placed in kilns and essentially baked at 200 degrees for three days, which forces the moisture out. The wood is then completely dry. Complete dry wood will burn more cleanly and efficiently.
So, why use Thayer Nursery kiln-dried dried firewood?
- It is guaranteed insect and insect -larvae free
- It is guaranteed disease free
- Thayer firewood is all hardwoods
- The wood is oven dried at 200 degrees for three days so moisture content is less than 25%
- It has been kept completely under cover in a wood barn on a concrete floor for its entire life – all season long
Safe and dry in the Wood Barn
You can trust that Thayer kiln-dried firewood is bug and bug-larvae-free, so it is safe to store it in your garage or basement. You can be sure that each piece will burn clean and longer, cutting down your trips to the wood pile, and you can trust that since it burns completely with very little ash and less creosote build-up, you will have less chimney cleaning to do.
Come up to the Nursery and we’ll take you on a tour of the wood barn. See for yourself how we take care of the wood that will take care of you this winter.
Most Un-Wanted: Cedar–Apple Rust
Sunday, August 8th, 2010
Wanted For: defoliating apple leaves & for just being gross!!
Description: bright yellow-orange-red spots on apple leaves and orange galls with ‘horns’
Hangout: juniper (eastern red cedar) & apple trees including crabapples
Kryptonite: Lime –Sulfur Spray, Home Orchard Spray
The fungus that causes this disease moves back-and-forth between Eastern red cedars (actually junipers) and both fruiting & ornamental apple trees. In order to complete its life cycle this fungus must spend part of its life on both. Therefore, it is possible to eliminate the disease by eliminating the cedars within the given area of the apple tree. However, the spores can be wind borne up to 2-3 miles, so eradication of the disease is often impossible or impractical. Nonetheless, if cedars are not too numerous on your property, the removal of junipers around the immediate apple tree can certainly reduce the spores reaching the apple foliage & fruit.
The spores drift through the air mostly at night and early morning. If it lands on the apple’s leaves & fruit and remains wet for 4-6 hours, the spores infect the leaves of the apple tree. After several weeks, yellow spots develop on the infected apple leaves and fruit. By mid-summer the spots appear slightly raised and light-colored & are visible on the underside of the leaf. Spores are released and the wind carries them to nearby junipers. Infected juniper needles and twigs show no symptoms of infection initially. Inspect them closely the next spring for small, green swellings (immature galls). The galls reach full size by the end of the next growing season but do not mature and develop the orange gelatinous tendrils until the following spring (about 20 months after infection.) This bizarre-looking structure is actually the fruiting stage of the fungus. The “horns” release the spores that infect the apple trees.
Many sulfur fungicides are effective against rust. Begin spraying in spring and repeat throughout the summer as needed. Spraying the juniper is not recommended because cedar-apple rust rarely causes significant damage to this host. Prune dormant galls from juniper during the fall, winter and early spring before the orange tendrils begin to erupt from galls.
planting for the future.
-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery
Most Un-Wanted: Lily Leaf Beetle
Sunday, August 1st, 2010
Wanted For: an invasive species that dines on & destroys ornamental lilies, also exhibits an interesting habit of personal hygiene – covering themselves with their own excrement
Description: beetle has bright scarlet body & black legs, head, & antennae and the Larvae resemble slugs with swollen orange, brown, yellowish or even greenish bodies and black heads
Hangout: asiatic lilies
Kryptonite: Neem, Spinosad, Pyrethrins
The adult beetles stay alive throughout the winter and emerge early in the spring, when they begin looking for food and a mate. The adult females lay their eggs on the underside of lily leaves and the females produce between 250 and 450 eggs. The eggs appear in April or May and hatch within eight days.
The young larvae feed on the underside and the upper surface of lily leaves and sometimes on lily buds. This feeding period, which lasts 16 to 24 days, is the most destructive. From there, the beetles drop to the soil and pupate, emerging as adults about 16 to 22 days later & feed throughout the rest of the growing season.
And their personal hygiene leaves something to be desired: they secrete and carry their excrement on their backs. While they feed, the lily leaf beetles cover their bodies with their own excrement, giving them a grotesque appearance. It is some sort of defensive mechanism – it makes them look like a bird dropping, warding off predators and parasites.
If you only have a few plants in your garden, hand-picking adults and eggs can be effective (we prefer not to handle larvae, although there is no danger in doing so). Neem is most effective – it will repel beetles and kill young larvae, but must be applied every 5 to 7 days after the eggs hatch. Spinosad will kill the larvae.
planting for the future.
-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery