“They must be starving! Maybe if I feed them, they’ll stay away from my plantings.” Sound familiar? As tempting as it may be, do not feed foraging deer. Feeding the deer trains them to think of your yard as a reliable source of food and they won’t stop at handouts, your landscape plantings will become their tasty treat!

Deer-X protective fencing is a more direct method of cultural protection against browsing. Whether used to erect vertical fences (to prevent access) or simply draped over shrubs (to interfere with chewing), this simple, rugged mesh can provide seasons of control!

An application of a deer repellent, such as Liquid Fence or Deer Scram, on and around landscaped areas will also help stop deer from making a winter meal of your trees and shrubs. Because they work by scent, repellents stop damage before any feeding occurs:

Liquid Fence is available as a liquid concentrate and in a ready-to-use spray bottle. Simply apply to plants and their perimeter to discourage foraging by scent. The active ingredients dry odorless to humans and do not need to be rotated with other brands!

Deer Scram is available as a granular formula with no mixing necessary. Simply apply in a 16 inch strip around plants to discourage browsing for up to 100 days!

Always remember that it’s much easier to prevent feeding damage than it is to stop a foraging cycle that has already begun. Call or stop by the Nursery to discuss your cruelty-free options with our knowledgeable staff!

-By Andy Archer Thayer Nursery

The roller coaster weather pattern we experienced this spring switched back to prolonged wet and chilly weather last week. While the moisture was needed as soils were quite dry, the constant wetness creates ideal conditions for disease causing organisms. Disease causing organisms are natural inhabitants of the soil and infect grass plants when the environmental conditions are favorable or the plants become weakened by poor growing conditions.  The pathogen is favored by warm, humid weather, wet or compacted soil, drought stress, and low mowing heights.

The spores of these parasitic forms of plant life are spread by wind, air, water, animals, people, insects and mowing.

Important steps to manage plant diseases include proper soil preparation, proper selection of grass seed including ones with a natural genetic resistance to diseases, and application of proper cultural practices.

If you have a fungus, spraying now with Dr. Earth Natural & Organic Fungicide effectively combats a broad spectrum of fungal diseases found in your lawn, on your vegetables, flowers & shrubs. Dr. Earth can be used both as a foliar spray for your plants or a soil drench for your lawn & trees.

Once you have sprayed the fungicide, you should then fertilize your lawn & your plants with Fire Belly Bio-Blast to reintroduce beneficial mycorrhizal fungi.

Healthy soils that have the ability to fight off disease causing pathogens increase the chances of plant survival and thus control the pathogens so they will not multiply in great numbers.  Beneficial microbes fill up the available spaces in the soil so that pathogens cannot become established and destroy healthy plants.

Most lawns recover with changes in environmental conditions and proper cultural practices. For severe cases due to poor soil, poor grass selection, or excessive thatch, the best solution may be renovation. Please give us a call with any questions or to schedule a courtesy consultation for a lawn renovation.

planting for the future.

-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery

Absolutely not.  In fact, even all kiln-dried firewood is not the same and here’s why.

Firewood must be seasoned before you can use it. When wood is first harvested it’s green, with very high moisture content.  It doesn’t burn well and it may smoke, or sputter.  It also can produce creosote, a black oily accretion that builds up inside chimney flues as a result of wood that doesn’t burn completely.  Creosote can clog up your chimney. Seasoning dries the wood.

Kiln-dried firewood has been seasoned by drying in a kiln. With this method, as opposed to leaving the wood out to season in the elements, the firewood is placed in kilns and essentially baked at 200 degrees for three days, which forces the moisture out. The wood is then completely dry.  Complete dry wood will burn more cleanly and efficiently.

So, why use Thayer Nursery kiln-dried dried firewood?

• It is guaranteed insect and insect -larvae free
• It is guaranteed disease free
• Thayer firewood is all hardwoods
• The wood is oven dried at 200 degrees for three days so moisture content is less than 25%
• It has been kept completely under cover in a wood barn on a concrete floor for its entire life – all season long

Safe and dry in the Wood Barn

You can trust that Thayer kiln-dried firewood is bug and bug-larvae-free, so it is safe to store it in your garage or basement.  You can be sure that each piece will burn clean and longer, cutting down your trips to the wood pile, and you can trust that since it burns completely with very little ash and less creosote build-up, you will have less chimney cleaning to do.

Come up to the Nursery and we’ll take you on a tour of the wood barn.  See for yourself how we take care of the wood that will take care of you this winter.

Wanted For: defoliating apple leaves & for just being gross!!

Description: bright yellow-orange-red spots on apple leaves and orange galls with ‘horns’

Hangout: juniper (eastern red cedar) & apple trees including crabapples

Kryptonite: Lime –Sulfur Spray, Home Orchard Spray

The fungus that causes this disease moves back-and-forth between Eastern red cedars (actually junipers) and both fruiting & ornamental apple trees.  In order to complete its life cycle this fungus must spend part of its life on both. Therefore, it is possible to eliminate the disease by eliminating the cedars within the given area of the apple tree. However, the spores can be wind borne up to 2-3 miles, so eradication of the disease is often impossible or impractical. Nonetheless, if cedars are not too numerous on your property, the removal of junipers around the immediate apple tree can certainly reduce the spores reaching the apple foliage & fruit.

The spores drift through the air mostly at night and early morning. If it lands on the apple’s leaves & fruit and remains wet for 4-6 hours, the spores infect the leaves of the apple tree. After several weeks, yellow spots develop on the infected apple leaves and fruit. By mid-summer the spots appear slightly raised and light-colored & are visible on the underside of the leaf. Spores are released and the wind carries them to nearby junipers. Infected juniper needles and twigs show no symptoms of infection initially. Inspect them closely the next spring for small, green swellings (immature galls). The galls reach full size by the end of the next growing season but do not mature and develop the orange gelatinous tendrils until the following spring (about 20 months after infection.) This bizarre-looking structure is actually the fruiting stage of the fungus. The “horns” release the spores that infect the apple trees.

Many sulfur fungicides are effective against rust. Begin spraying in spring and repeat throughout the summer as needed. Spraying the juniper is not recommended because cedar-apple rust rarely causes significant damage to this host. Prune dormant galls from juniper during the fall, winter and early spring before the orange tendrils begin to erupt from galls.

planting for the future.

-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery

Wanted For: an invasive species that dines on & destroys ornamental lilies, also exhibits an interesting habit of personal hygiene – covering themselves with their own excrement

Description: beetle has bright scarlet body & black legs, head, & antennae and the Larvae resemble slugs with swollen orange, brown, yellowish or even greenish bodies and black heads

Hangout: asiatic lilies

Kryptonite: Neem, Spinosad, Pyrethrins

The adult beetles stay alive throughout the winter and emerge early in the spring, when they begin looking for food and a mate. The adult females lay their eggs on the underside of lily leaves and the females produce between 250 and 450 eggs. The eggs appear in April or May and hatch within eight days.

The young larvae feed on the underside and the upper surface of lily leaves and sometimes on lily buds. This feeding period, which lasts 16 to 24 days, is the most destructive. From there, the beetles drop to the soil and pupate, emerging as adults about 16 to 22 days later & feed throughout the rest of the growing season.

And their personal hygiene leaves something to be desired: they secrete and carry their excrement on their backs. While they feed, the lily leaf beetles cover their bodies with their own excrement, giving them a grotesque appearance. It is some sort of defensive mechanism – it makes them look like a bird dropping, warding off predators and parasites.

If you only have a few plants in your garden, hand-picking adults and eggs can be effective (we prefer not to handle larvae, although there is no danger in doing so). Neem is most effective – it will repel beetles and kill young larvae, but must be applied every 5 to 7 days after the eggs hatch. Spinosad will kill the larvae.

planting for the future.

-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery

Blight One: Septoria Leaf Spot

Septoria Leaf Spot is the most common blight, and it appears roughly around the end of July and starts out as small round black or brown rotting marks on the lowest leaves. It works its way up the plant to hit all the leaves but it starts from the bottom first. You will still get fruit if you have this problem.

Blight Two: Early Blight

Early Blight is the second most regularly seen tomato blight. It usually appears about the same time as the Septoria but it has concentric target-shaped marks, the spots on the leaves look like targets with circles within circles. This tomato blight spreads all over the plant and you will still get fruit but the crop will be reduced.

Blight Three: Late Blight

Late Blight is the least common of these tomato blights. It appears later than the previous two and the first symptoms you will see are watery type lesions on the lower leaves. If you get this one, you won’t have to ask what you have because the elapsed time from the time you first see it to the time the plant wilts and dies is about a week. If your tomato plants simply shrivel up and die with big brown spots on the leaves and it seems to happen overnight, your plants are suffering from Late Blight.

What Can Be Done

Generally if you’ve already seen the problem, there’s not a lot you can do. A preventative organic spray of Lime-Sulphur or Serenade mix will slow down the spread of Septoria and Early Blight but the real key is in the prevention of the problem. The cure rests in good gardening techniques rather than any kind of magic spray.

Mulch
Mulching will reduce the stress on the plant and it will prevent “splash-back” from the ground to lower leaves during rainstorms. The lower leaves on tomato plants tend to be dirt splashed because rain or irrigation tends to splash dirt up. This dirt can contain the spores for blight.

Rotate Crop
Do not plant any crop in the same place more than one year. Planting in the same spot from year to year is simply an invitation to problems. Spores build up in the soil and there’s little you can do to prevent them from using your tomatoes as a food source.

Don’t Water At Night
Do not water in the evening. You want your leaves to be dry going into the evening. Damp leaves & dark conditions are ideal for spore starting and keeping those leaves dry is the way to keep them healthy.

Do Not Crowd
You really do need to space tomato plants apart. Staking the plants and giving them at least two square feet each is the best way to keep the leaves dry. Also prune off the lower leaves. This lets the air and sunlight into the fruit and it also reduces watersplash.

Don’t Compost
The average composter does not get hot enough to kill the overwintering spores so the best thing you can do is bag up the waste.
If you see a branch with a problem, prune it out immediately. Do not let it sit on the plant to infect all other parts of the plant. Also, pull out any weeds from around your plants – they reduce air circulation, suck up nutrients and can act as a host for tomato blight.

Select Disease Resistant Plants
If you have a problem with tomato blight, plant cultivars with disease resistance. Look for letters after the name of the plant that might say “V” for verticillium resistant, or “F” for fusarium resistant. While not specifically blight resistant, they do have better overall resistance to tomato blight problems than those without those initials.

-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery

Milton on Lookout for Asian Beetles
Milton’s tree caretakers are taking extra precautions after the discovery earlier this week of an infestation in Jamaica Plain of the same Asian longhorned beetles that have destroyed thousands of trees in Worcester County.

Worcester and several surrounding towns have lost 25,000 hardwoods to the insect menace. Earlier this week, in the first Massachusetts sighting outside of Worcester’s 74-square-mile quaratine zone, an infestation felled six trees across from the world-class Arnold Arboretum nature sanctuary in Jamaica Plain.

This latest discovery of the white-spotted Asian longhorned beetle and the subsequent removal and chipping of the infected trees only five miles from Milton on the grounds of Faulkner Hospital has stirred extra vigilance among local hardwood caretakers.

Thayer Nursery, on Hillside Street at the foot of the Blue Hills Reservation, grows many species of hardwood trees in its fields, including elm, ash, birch, maple and willow. Up until now, the nursery had little concern for the Asian beetle, instead focusing on other common insects like aphids, mites and leaf miners.

“Because we are a Massachusetts farm, we do get inspected yearly by the Department of Agricultural Resources,” Maggie Oldfield, managing partner of the nursery’s garden center, said in an email. “They walk around our farm inspecting for diseases and insects.”

Recently the department added the longhorned beetle to its inspection list. The latest DAR check was in early June, Oldfield said, and it found Thayer Nursey “very neat and clean.”

At the end of May, a coordinated search by federal and state forestry agencies failed to turn up any of the beetles at more than 200 vacation homes and campgrounds from Pennsylvania to Maine.

But now, with the insects found just a few miles away, the nursery is boosting its tree observation.

“There really is not anything we can do except to monitor our farm,” Oldfield said. “We try to be as organic as possible and as of now, there is not any organic preventative for [the Asian longhorned beetle].”

The beetle, barely an inch and a half long, has devastated Worcester County residents since 2008 by boring into and killing thousands of hardwood trees. Only recently have the Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation and the U.S. Department of Agriculture gotten a handle on the situation by way of the quarantine, keeping vigorous watch and spraying insecticides.

DCR spokeswoman Wendy Fox said the agency is encouraging keepers of hardwoods to watch for perfectly-round, pencil-sized holes that can indicate infestation in a tree. The beetles, thought to have come to the United States from China in shipping crates, kill trees by digging into their heartwood, which transfers water and nutrients to other parts of the plant.

“It’s something everybody can keep an eye on,” Fox said.

She also said that so far there have been no sightings of the beetle outside of Faulkner Hospital and Worcester County.

Meanwhile, the DCR has cordoned off a 1.5-mile area around the Boston infection where the transportation of firewood or other woody material is banned. Massachusetts Energy and Environmental Affairs Secretary Ian Bowles said the state is “working as quickly as possible to determine the extent of the issue.”

Joe Lynch, director of the Milton Department of Public Works, said the town’s tree crews have been following state protocols for identifying invasive insects and disease for the past five years. The regulations include looking out for Asian longhorned beetles. Following this week’s new sighting, identification guidelines were rebroadcast to crews, who are watching for egg masses, holes and the beetles themselves.

If infected trees are found, Lynch said, they will be removed and destroyed and the area will be quarantined.

“We went from a warning level yellow to a warning level orange,” Lynch said. “We haven’t gone to red because there have been no confirmed sightings [in Milton].”

Forestry officials working in Worcester have found some success fighting the beetle, which has no known predators, by removing infected trees and spraying healthy specimens with a pesticide called Imidacloprid that prevents infestation.

Anyone who thinks they’ve spotted a beetle can compare the insect they’ve found with similar-looking species at the website of the Massachusetts Introduced Pests Outreach Project. The project is a collaboration between the state DAR and the UMass Extension Agriculture and Landscape Program, funded by the USDA. The site also includes a form for reporting pests.

Oldfield said Thayer Nursery can help by staying sharp-eyed and quickly notifying officials if beetles are spotted to ensure rapid eradication.

“And probably the most important thing we can do is to replant our own landscapes with non-susceptible trees thus creating a more diverse landscape.”

Wanted For: sucking the life out of innocent rose bushes with their needle-like mouth

Description: pinkish, greenish white; 1/16″ long & soft-bodied

Hangout: rose bushes; especially on stems, buds and young leaves

Kryptonite: Saf-t-Side Horticultural Oil, Bt & Lady Bugs

So Long, Suckers!

There are almost as many kinds of aphids as there are kinds of plants –rose aphid is just one example. Rose aphids prepare for next spring’s assault by laying hundreds of eggs on the branches of the rose bush. After the young aphids hatch, they spend their entire lives gorging on their victim’s life juices and producing more criminals. Too many on one bush can force some aphids to move and begin attacking another rose bush. Unless winters are mild, adults will die and only the eggs will survive until the next spring.

Not only should you learn about aphids, but you should also get to know the squadron of beneficial insects covering the area. Many hunt down aphids, restoring law and order.

However, aphids aren’t just sitting ducks-they have ants for bodyguards. Ants will tend aphids for their honeydew and protect them from aphid-eaters, so look for ways to deter ants, too.

Aphids reproduce quickly, actually giving birth to females that are already pregnant, so keep good records of changes in population size and tactics you used to control them.

CAUTION

aphids let diseases hitch a ride on their backs to new plants & then puncture plants for them so watch out for a fungus popping up at the same time as an aphid infestation

Planting for the future.

-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery

Wanted For

Description: young are 1” green inchworms with white stripes on sides; adult males are grayish brown with 1″ wingspans and appear hairy; females have no wings

Hangout: ornamental trees (crabapples, cherries & birch), fruit and shade trees (oaks & maples)

Kryptonite: Horticultural Oil, Bt, Spinosad

Research from UMass Amherst is indicating that Winter Moth is expected to be in very large numbers this spring and the potential for defoliation this year might surpass last year. Begin peeling the buds open and start inspecting for the presence of tiny larvae, which wriggle into swelling buds to feed.

Horticultural oil spray should be applied now when temperatures are above 45°f. Hort oil is an organic control that works by suffocation. Eggs that are protectively hidden within crevices and under lichen will not be covered by the spray thus will not be killed.

Winter moth eggs hatch anytime between late March and early April. This is the time when the most damage occurs. There is great potential of injury when the buds stay swollen but unopened. Winter moths will enter both leaf and flower buds.
Once the buds open, the caterpillars are known as “free-feeders” given that they are now on the foliage and free to move easily from one area to another. Winter moth will be in this stage until late May or early June. While still on the plant, however, they are exposed and very treatable with Bt or Spinosad.

Bacillus thuringiensis, Bt, is a bacterium which must be ingested to be effective. Bt produces proteins that paralyze the digestive system of the winter moth. The infected insect stops feeding within hours thus starving to death in a couple of days. Bt works best on the younger stages of caterpillars; older ones are much less affected.

Spinosad is another organic control that is derived from a naturally occurring soil bacterium that was collected from soil in an abandoned rum distillery in the Caribbean by a scientist on vacation. Spinosad kills damaging insects by causing rapid excitation of the nervous system. Spinosad is fast acting – the insect dies within 1 to 2 days after ingesting. It works well as both a contact spray as well as by ingestion. Spinosad products work well on caterpillars of all ages.

The winter moth will then be out of sight until adults emerge in late November or early December when they are seen fluttering in your headlights or by your back door light.

-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery