Welcome to the Thayer Nursery Blog
January 17th, 2011
Once upon a time, a young family came to the crossroad of Forest and Hillside streets at the foot of a big blue hill called Great Blue Hill.
The sister said to her family, “I love this place so much – the land is plentiful, the people are friendly. Oh please, let’s stay here.” And so, the father and mother bought the land that became a farm nestled in a beautiful forest, in the magical town called Milton.
Then, as children do, they became very hungry.
Reaching into his knapsack, the dark haired young man found nothing but a landscaping sketch pad, a few multicolored pencils & some flint. The girl searched to the very bottom of her bag where she found her lucky, and very shiny smooth stone. And so, with all the love, tenderness, and hope a family can have for one another, they made their way to the spring in the center of town.
Taking scraps of paper from his pad, his pencils and using only the finest kiln dried wood, he built a fire. Using a lovely pot handcrafted by the sister, a kind and helpful town official filled it with water from the spring. Looking at each other, they laughed and said, “Remember what Dad said. When you have cracked lemons, you make lemonade. Well we have a lot of water.” “I have my lucky stone,” she said, “let’s make stone soup.” “Stone soup?” the young man asked, “Yes, the girl said, “soup from a stone.”
The news of the young brother and sister who were making soup from a stone spread throughout the town and created quite a stir among the town’s people. One person after another asked, “What are you cooking? What’s that you have in the pot?” “May we have some?” they asked. “Yes, said the brother, but if we only had a carrot, it would be so much better, and then we could share it with you.”
“A carrot? What a great idea!” said one woman and she went to pluck one from her garden. One town person after another began to donate. A turnip, an onion, some sausage, anything that was in season and on hand was added.
So the town’s people gathered at the little farm at the edge of the big blue hill to share the delicious soup that they had made together. “This is wicked good!” said one, I can’t believe you made this incredible soup from a stone.” “We all made it! An awesome soup can be made from many, small, good things!” said the brother and sister. “By working together, with everyone contributing what they can, a greater soup is achieved.”
As they said good-by to all their friends, the sister shouted, “Come again and we’ll have some stone soup on Sunday.”
“Wait, I have an idea, let’s open a market where we sell the best of the earth’s bounty winter, spring, summer and fall. And you will come here to meet and find food and enjoy each others’ company! And we will call it stonesoup sundays @ the farm.” And everyone cheered.
That’s how the sister’s idea for a market with local seasonal and exceptional food and crafts came to be known as stonesoup sundays @ the farm, which this winter, is open every other Sunday starting on January 23, 2011 from 10:30AM to 4:30PM, at a place called Thayer Nursery.
TO BE CONTINUED…
November 24th, 2010
We thought we would give you some key activities before winter to make your garden all comfy through the winter.
Cut your perennials down to the ground. (Grasses may be left uncut till after winter)
Rake leaves from around tree trunks and the stems of shrubs to keep moisture from rotting woody material
Fertilizer:
Apply appropriate fertilizers at 1/2 dose rate: You don’t want to encourage new growth, but give plants enough sustenance for healthy dormancy. Apply Holly Tone (or organic fertilizer for acid loving plants) to conifers, broadleaf evergreens (such as holly, mountain laurel, rhododendrons, azaleas, pieris (Andromeda), Japanese holly, inkberry, leucothoe, boxwood, dogwood, blueberry, magnolia, and micro biota pachysandra. Apply Flower Tone to all perennials and Plant Tone to deciduous shrubs
Tie up and cinch tightly with heavy twine any plants susceptible to heavy snow loads such as arborvitae, boxwood, ’sky pencil’ and Japanese holly. Make sure to include anything that is in danger of being smothered by ice/snow sliding off the roof.
Spray broadleaf evergreens with an anti-desiccant such as Wilt Pruf or Wilt Stop. Include any other evergreens that are exposed to constant desiccating winds.
Spread 3-4″ layer of Allgro, (A Thayer product) compost or Nutrimulch, ( also at Thayer Nursery) in beds to provide insulation and soil structure enhancement.
Empty of all soil all ceramic or terracotta pots. Put them away inside safe from moisture or cover with plastic/tarp, etc if you leave them outside.
Edge beds to create a crisp finish that neatens and tightens up the garden as we go into winter. (Purely aesthetic)
Prune deciduous shrubs and trees (can be done throughout winter), except magnolia and cherry.
Here are a few hints on your lawn.
Cut lawn as short as possible, to 2″ once it has stopped growing to eliminate the chance of snow mold and fungus infesting lawn. In addition, fertilize your lawn with organic fertilizer high in phosphorus(about 2:1 ratio to nitrogen content) Organically, it is a good idea to add humates, (liquid form or granular soil building substance) for winterizing.
November 15th, 2010
We thought we should share these tips from the American Christmas Tree Association regarding the care and feeding of Christmas trees.
When a Christmas tree is cut, over half of its weight is water. With proper care, you can maintain the quality of your displayed trees. Below are a number of tips relating to the care of displayed trees:
1. Displaying trees in water in a traditional reservoir type stand is the most effective way of maintaining their freshness and minimizing needle loss problems.
2. Make a fresh cut to remove about a 1/2-inch thick disk of wood from the base of the trunk before putting the tree in the stand. Make the cut perpendicular to the stem axis. Don’t cut the trunk at an angle, or into a v-shape, which makes it far more difficult to hold the tree in the stand and also reduces the amount of water available to the tree.
3. Once home, place the tree in water as soon as possible. Most species can go 6 to 8 hours after cutting the trunk and still take up water. Don’t bruise the cut surface or get it dirty.
4. If needed, trees can be temporarily stored for several days in a cool location. Place the freshly cut trunk in a bucket that is kept full of water.
5. To display the trees indoors, use a stand with an adequate water holding capacity for the tree. As a general rule, stands should provide 1 quart of water per inch of stem diameter. Devices are available that help maintain a constant water level in the stand.
6. Use a stand that fits your tree. Avoid whittling the sides of the trunk down to fit a stand. The outer layers of wood are the most efficient in taking up water and should not be removed.
7. Keep displayed trees away from sources of heat (fireplaces, heaters, heat vents, and direct sunlight). Lowering the room temperature will slow the drying process, resulting in less water consumption each day.
8. The temperature of the water used to fill the stand is not important and does not affect water uptake.
9. Check the stand daily to make sure that the level of water does not go below the base of the tree. With many stands, there can still be water in the stand even though the base of the tree is no longer submerged in water.
10. Drilling a hole in the base of the trunk does not improve water uptake.
11. Use of lights that produce low heat, such as miniature lights, will reduce drying
12. Always inspect light sets prior to placing them on the tree. If worn, replace with a new set.
13. Do not overload electrical circuits.
14. Always turn off the tree lights when leaving the house or when going to bed.
15. Monitor the tree for freshness. After Christmas or if the tree is dry, remove it from the house.
16. Go to realchristmastrees.org and type in your ZIP code to find a recycling program near you.
17. Never burn any part of a Christmas tree in a wood stove or fireplace.
October 25th, 2010
Research has shown, actually research begun by NASA in the 1960’s, that houseplants can remove nearly 90% of the toxins in indoor air within two days!
The spider plant, with its numerous and quick-growing leaves, is one of the most powerful air cleansers.
Microscopic openings in the spider plant’s leaves filter harmful substances and absorb mold-spore allergens and traces of carbon monoxide and formaldehyde, a colorless gas emitted by some carpet materials and furniture. Removal of these gases can help with headaches, difficulty breathing or wheezing and brain fog.
In terms of care, the Spider Plant only requires water every two weeks or so. Let the soil dry out completely between watering. If the foliage begins to show black tips, or a yellow halo, it is probably getting too much water. If the foliage begins to droop, it is ready for a drink.
Spider Plants also are very easy to propagate, but we have them in the Nursery as well.
By Maggie Oldfield
October 4th, 2010
Fall seeding is a great way to repair damaged areas in your lawn created throughout the summer, or start and establish a new lawn. Actually, fall is a better time for germination and lawn development due to better weather conditions. Not only is the air temperature cooler in the fall, but the soil temperature is actually warmer than it is in the spring. This allows the grass seed to develop into a mature plant much faster.
Once you’ve decided to go do a fall seeding, there are a few things you should do.
1. Test the pH of your soil
Before you begin, it is always a good idea to test your soil pH to make sure it is between 6.0 and 7.5. If your soil reads below 6.0 you will need to add lime to make it more alkaline, and if it reads above 7.5 you can add Espoma® Organic Soil Acidifyer to make it more acidic.
2. Remove any large rocks and roots
This includes any that may be protruding or are just beneath the surface of your soil.
3. Top-dress your soil with compost
Come in and ask us about our AllGrow Compost. For best results the compost should be tilled into the existing soil.
4. Amend the soil
This is the stage where you would add any lime (if needed), peat moss, and starter fertilizer (do not try to spread by hand or mix together in spreader since different rates are needed for each). We recommend using Jonathan Green New Seeding Lawn Fertilizer or Jonathan Green Winter Survival. If you’d like to go organic, we also sell Jonathan Green Organic Lawn Fertilizer! Once you’ve spread your soil amendments with a spreader, use a steal rake to rake them into the top inch of soil.
5. Spread the grass seed
It is important to set your spreader to the correct opening and to spread the seed as evenly as possible. As far as type and amount of seed, we carry an extensive line of Jonathan Green Grass Seed Mixtures that come in many different size bags. Be sure to consult with one of our knowledgeable staff members about which seed is best for your lawn prior to purchasing your seed.
6. Rake in the grass seed
Using a plastic leaf rake, flip it upside down and make short light strokes to make sure that the seed gets turned in slightly but is not redistributed over the soil.
7. Water
This is by far one of the most important factors in the germination of grass seed. Water the entire newly seeded area evenly with a sprinkler once you are done seeding. For the first 10-14 days after, it is best to water two to three times daily for five to ten minutes each time. This ensures that the seed stays moist but is not drenched or washed out.
For seeding over existing lawns, you can follow the same basic steps except where it involves tilling or turning your soil. In its place, it is a good idea to thatch and/or aerate your lawn first before spreading amendments and seed. Following these steps ensures your lawn has the best chances possible to look its best. And of course, if there are any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask us by posting a response, calling our store (617)698-2005, or stopping by!
« Older Entries•Home•Newer Entries »
