When planting, there are a few easy steps you can follow that will increase your plants chances for survival (which will in turn reduce the likelihood of having to redo the project over). When I am planting for myself or others, I always make sure I have at the very least compost, peat moss, and starter fertilizer. We carry 1 ft³ bags of planting mix that come premixed with compost and peat as well as carrying both individually. For the starter fertilizer I would recommend something that contains mycorrhizae, which is just a big word for beneficial bacteria. For this we carry Bio-tone® as well as Organica Plant Growth Activator™, both are organic and work well for all plants.

 Once you’re ready to go with all your supplies the next step is to dig the hole. The hole should be no deeper than the height of the root ball. If anything the root ball should be above ground level ¼ – ½ inch. The hole should be wide enough to give the root ball at least 6 inches on all sides (though more is better) so the roots have soft soil to grow into. If your plant is being taken out of a container it is important to see if it is pot bound. If there are any roots circling the root ball, the root ball should be scored vertically with the blade of your pruners (or any other sharp gardening tool) several times around so the roots face more outward, the direction they need to grow.

 Once dug, place the root ball in the center and face the plant. What this means is that if there is a side that will be more visible than others, make sure the best side of the plant faces that way. If the plant is large in size or if the trunk is loose in the soil, it may be a good idea to stake the plant. Remove the burlap (if there is any) from just the top of the root ball. You should leave the burlap around the sides and bottom because it helps maintains the integrity of the root ball and will break down quickly. You also do not have to remove the metal basket (on larger root balls). Just bend back the loops that protrude above ground so they are just below the surface and they will also break down over time and do not inhibit root development.

 Once the shrub is facing the way you want it and is straight, you are ready to fill in the hole. With the dirt that you have taken out mix in the compost, peat, and starter fertilizer and then begin to backfill, compacting it as you go. You can make a ring with the remaining soil as wide as the hole you dug earlier to help retain water.

 For larger trees, the addition of a Gator Bag can greatly reduce the number of times you need to water. They are wrapped around the trunk and filled with water. The water slowly drips out of the bottom over the next 6-8 hours soaking the roots much deeper than hand watering. All of these steps give your plant the best possible chance of survival as well as improve the overall appearance for the seasons to come.

 -By John Prettyman Thayer Nursery