“They must be starving! Maybe if I feed them, they’ll stay away from my plantings.” Sound familiar? As tempting as it may be, do not feed foraging deer. Feeding the deer trains them to think of your yard as a reliable source of food and they won’t stop at handouts, your landscape plantings will become their tasty treat!

Deer-X protective fencing is a more direct method of cultural protection against browsing. Whether used to erect vertical fences (to prevent access) or simply draped over shrubs (to interfere with chewing), this simple, rugged mesh can provide seasons of control!

An application of a deer repellent, such as Liquid Fence or Deer Scram, on and around landscaped areas will also help stop deer from making a winter meal of your trees and shrubs. Because they work by scent, repellents stop damage before any feeding occurs:

Liquid Fence is available as a liquid concentrate and in a ready-to-use spray bottle. Simply apply to plants and their perimeter to discourage foraging by scent. The active ingredients dry odorless to humans and do not need to be rotated with other brands!

Deer Scram is available as a granular formula with no mixing necessary. Simply apply in a 16 inch strip around plants to discourage browsing for up to 100 days!

Always remember that it’s much easier to prevent feeding damage than it is to stop a foraging cycle that has already begun. Call or stop by the Nursery to discuss your cruelty-free options with our knowledgeable staff!

-By Andy Archer Thayer Nursery

Wanted For: defoliating apple leaves & for just being gross!!

Description: bright yellow-orange-red spots on apple leaves and orange galls with ‘horns’

Hangout: juniper (eastern red cedar) & apple trees including crabapples

Kryptonite: Lime –Sulfur Spray, Home Orchard Spray

The fungus that causes this disease moves back-and-forth between Eastern red cedars (actually junipers) and both fruiting & ornamental apple trees.  In order to complete its life cycle this fungus must spend part of its life on both. Therefore, it is possible to eliminate the disease by eliminating the cedars within the given area of the apple tree. However, the spores can be wind borne up to 2-3 miles, so eradication of the disease is often impossible or impractical. Nonetheless, if cedars are not too numerous on your property, the removal of junipers around the immediate apple tree can certainly reduce the spores reaching the apple foliage & fruit.

The spores drift through the air mostly at night and early morning. If it lands on the apple’s leaves & fruit and remains wet for 4-6 hours, the spores infect the leaves of the apple tree. After several weeks, yellow spots develop on the infected apple leaves and fruit. By mid-summer the spots appear slightly raised and light-colored & are visible on the underside of the leaf. Spores are released and the wind carries them to nearby junipers. Infected juniper needles and twigs show no symptoms of infection initially. Inspect them closely the next spring for small, green swellings (immature galls). The galls reach full size by the end of the next growing season but do not mature and develop the orange gelatinous tendrils until the following spring (about 20 months after infection.) This bizarre-looking structure is actually the fruiting stage of the fungus. The “horns” release the spores that infect the apple trees.

Many sulfur fungicides are effective against rust. Begin spraying in spring and repeat throughout the summer as needed. Spraying the juniper is not recommended because cedar-apple rust rarely causes significant damage to this host. Prune dormant galls from juniper during the fall, winter and early spring before the orange tendrils begin to erupt from galls.

planting for the future.

-By Maggie Oldfield Thayer Nursery

When planting, there are a few easy steps you can follow that will increase your plants chances for survival (which will in turn reduce the likelihood of having to redo the project over). When I am planting for myself or others, I always make sure I have at the very least compost, peat moss, and starter fertilizer. We carry 1 ft³ bags of planting mix that come premixed with compost and peat as well as carrying both individually. For the starter fertilizer I would recommend something that contains mycorrhizae, which is just a big word for beneficial bacteria. For this we carry Bio-tone® as well as Organica Plant Growth Activator™, both are organic and work well for all plants.

 Once you’re ready to go with all your supplies the next step is to dig the hole. The hole should be no deeper than the height of the root ball. If anything the root ball should be above ground level ¼ – ½ inch. The hole should be wide enough to give the root ball at least 6 inches on all sides (though more is better) so the roots have soft soil to grow into. If your plant is being taken out of a container it is important to see if it is pot bound. If there are any roots circling the root ball, the root ball should be scored vertically with the blade of your pruners (or any other sharp gardening tool) several times around so the roots face more outward, the direction they need to grow.

 Once dug, place the root ball in the center and face the plant. What this means is that if there is a side that will be more visible than others, make sure the best side of the plant faces that way. If the plant is large in size or if the trunk is loose in the soil, it may be a good idea to stake the plant. Remove the burlap (if there is any) from just the top of the root ball. You should leave the burlap around the sides and bottom because it helps maintains the integrity of the root ball and will break down quickly. You also do not have to remove the metal basket (on larger root balls). Just bend back the loops that protrude above ground so they are just below the surface and they will also break down over time and do not inhibit root development.

 Once the shrub is facing the way you want it and is straight, you are ready to fill in the hole. With the dirt that you have taken out mix in the compost, peat, and starter fertilizer and then begin to backfill, compacting it as you go. You can make a ring with the remaining soil as wide as the hole you dug earlier to help retain water.

 For larger trees, the addition of a Gator Bag can greatly reduce the number of times you need to water. They are wrapped around the trunk and filled with water. The water slowly drips out of the bottom over the next 6-8 hours soaking the roots much deeper than hand watering. All of these steps give your plant the best possible chance of survival as well as improve the overall appearance for the seasons to come.

 -By John Prettyman Thayer Nursery